The new year, 2012, has arrived and along with it a major change in my beekeeping plan. After attending Jacqueline’s January meeting, which focused on the three main hives used in our area—Langstroth, TopBar Hives, and Warre—I have decided to go with a Warre as a second hive. Below are some of the emails between the ever-patient Ken (our local hive builder) and myself, which provide a glimpse into my thoughts and his ideas. Ken called shortly after receiving my first message and we talked about the reasons TBH were good for the backyard beekeeper… primarily the advantages of less weight to deal with when handling the hives. It will probably take three people to add a box to the bottom of a Warre hive, but I’m okay with that as there are many people around me to call upon. Otherwise, the TBH and Warre are very similar relative to having top bars on which bees draw comb as they wish rather than having to conform to the human standardized foundation most beneficial to commercial operations.
I will keep the TBH as a swarming hive (mentioned in earlier posts) and used the Warre for honey…still keeping the primary goal of helping bees thrive in the neighborhood to pollinate and reproduce naturally.
Jan 11, 2012
Hi Ken,
I'm wondering what you'll think of this...I'm so impressed with Warre hives that I want one as a second hive for honey gathering. Will keep the current TBH for a swarming hive and to collect honey after winter. Attended a class about three different hives: Langstroth, TBH and Warre and think Warre best meets the needs of our weather and moisture issues. I'm reading http://www.thewarrestore.com/ where I'm finding more info in one place than I've seen before.
I know you got out of building Warre's but wonder if you'd consider it again. Or, I think I can make one at the 50+ Center in Salem
Your thoughts?
Hope you and Sal are completely well...now I'm feeling not so good--not bad but not quite normal.
Bees in our hive seem to be doing well, sun is shining and snow might happen in a few days so I'm happy,
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Jan 13, 2012
Good Morning Ken!
have been thinking about a handle change for the Warre hives that I forgot to mention....
how about switching to two large eye bolts rather than wood handles on each box to facilitate lifting and securing? If one could slide a metal bar that is longer than the hive is wide through eye bolts, wouldn't it make lifting much easier by two people when sliding the lowest box under?
Also, in the class it was stressed that the hives should be secured/braced against falling caused by winds and varmints--I'm thinking one could turn the eye bolts horizontal and slide rebar (or a similar metal bar) through the bolts on each box and into the ground...could even use the lifting bars I suppose.
And also, the eye bolts should be on front and back so lifters would stand off to the sides and not obstruct the entrance, true?
Another idea from the class...using needlepoint canvas, which is plastic, for the bottom board screening rather than wire.
I'm sure there is more we can improvise! now, have a good day,
Fri, Jan 13, 2012 Ken’s response
Uh-Huh.... Now you are beginning to comprehend the magnitude of prototype conversion, Lorraine
Forget the metal, it isn't necessary. What you want is a small modified "Bee Yard" that can answer the concerns of both Warre and Horizontal beekeepers.
The Warre has always been difficult to work because it has always been assumed that the bees would always work up or down. With a proper design, it is possible to use both vertical and horizontal behavior of the bees to ours and their advantage.
By using the modified dimensions of a Warre to compliment the dimensions of the Kenya
For lifting the bottom there should be an elevated foundation brick pedestal at knee height and slightly smaller than the dimensions of the Warre bottom and the bottom would be "fixed" to the top layer of foundation bricks.
An in-ground post framework could be built to brace all parts of a Warre hive like the old fashioned poker chip holders only square. The posts would be slightly farther apart than the dimensions of the hive. A frame of 2x4 stock can then be made to slip over the framework and stop on cleats positioned just below the top of the top super.
You could then go ahead and employ your eye bolt idea in lieu of handles for transporting the supers.
I'll make up a small model....I can use it in my plans anyway.
Jan 14, 2012 another note from Lorraine to Ken
although only a few inches wider, maybe elongating the hive is not such a good deal for the bees--see this from http://www.thewarrestore.com/warrehives.htm: “Another very notable advantage to the Warré's shape and size comes from the fact that because the bee cluster is close to all of the hive walls and therefore is heating the walls, there is little or no condensation in the corners. Condensation that frequently forms in the corners of larger hives and in horizontal hives is a significant contributor to mold, mildew and bee diseases such as nosema. In other hives, condensation can become such a problem that the bees get wet and die of exposure. Winter losses due to this are quite common.”
We haven’t talked much since those notes because I’ve been sick, sick, sick. But I have looked out the window in the midst of all this snow and rain (4”+ during the past 48 hours) to see that a few bees were out yesterday at 4:30p when the rain was taking a break and temperature was 53°. Also, surprisingly I saw several bees flying on the 15th when thermometer showed 39°…???
A few other items of note and to do’s learned at Jacqueline’s meeting:
*vibration of freestanding comb assists with communication throughout the hive, hugely important I think
*anchor hives for stability during high winds; we don’t usually have that problem and ours are in a relatively sheltered spot but will keep that in mind for the future Warre which will be taller than current TBH
*when harvesting honey from TBH, remove honey from both ends and move brood bars forward so food will all be to one side. I believe the bees set up our hive in that way; during last fall check, they were all bunched up at the front end of the hive and now I can see bees through the entrance, which is where the brood was originally established.
*check hives during February, when we usually have a few really warm days here, and move honey closer to brood comb. (I’ll also be checking for mildew then.)
With the decision to go with a Warre hive, I've added these two site to my list of favorites in the July 20 blog:
http://www.thewarrestore.com/ & http://warre.biobees.com/plans.htm & http://www.friendlyhaven.com/classes.html
With the decision to go with a Warre hive, I've added these two site to my list of favorites in the July 20 blog:
http://www.thewarrestore.com/ & http://warre.biobees.com/plans.htm & http://www.friendlyhaven.com/classes.html
We are anxious for spring and honey flow to begin...the dandelions signal the beginning of a new bee season here. And our yard and garden and flower beds will be crammed with those!!
