I’m back! Attended
the Central Oregon Beekeeping Association meeting last night and am still
amazed at how much new information I learned…wow!! More jazzed than I have been
in a long time about bee guardianship and ready to add another type of hive to
the apiary—well, that would be my one Warré hive in Independence and empty Warré
hive here in Bend, which will be filled later this spring. People/members were
so congenial and offers of help readily offered…nice.
Notes from Central Oregon Beekeeping Association (http://www.cobeekeeping.org/)
Jan 9, 2014 meeting
Upcoming dates:
March 1 Beginning Bee
School $25/family
April 12 Advanced Bee Class (free for members)
March 15 4-H Living on a Few Acres, Deschutes Co
Presentation by Naomi
on Long Hives.
“Read not to contradict nor to believe, but to weigh and
consider.” Francis Bacon
(Naomi’s philosophy—read below with that in mind for mine as
well)
Naomi, with help of Larry, husband, and Richard, friend, has
developed a hive that incorporates the best of the topbar, Warré, and
Langstroth hives, in my opinion. She demonstrated the hive and how one uses it
from a sitting position, shared many insights from her research, and responded
to questions from the audience. Below are points garnered from Naomi and others
at the meeting, in no particular order or importance.
Naomi uses Langstroth deeps, with no foundation, which
allows bees to draw comb to their specifications and still allows one to rest
the frame on the edge of the hive, particularly important when comb is filled
and heavier. Allows for easily sharing, installing nucs, etc. The screened
packages can be laid inside the hive and bees move at their own pace into the
frame space…nice.
Naomi has a symbol by the entrance to prevent bees ‘drifting’
which can easily happen if hives are close together. Color is nice for
beekeeper but doesn’t mean much to bees. The best spacing between hives is 95’,
breaking front to back rather than side to side.
Bees have a ‘dance floor’ usually on the first frame—do NOT
move the first frame ever! Otherwise bees have to search through combs to find
it. Sometimes second comb outside also serves as dance floor space. (LB note: first
comb in my top bar hives held pollen and honey, no brood.)
Long hive has 24 frames with 12 frames of brood, from frame
2 through 15, the front frames; honey stores are at the back.
Place queen cage between frames 2 and 3 not at front of hive
on frame 1. Third day, as bees building
brood comb move last frame out and add empty frames before it. Brood comb is
always straight and this will help keep additional combs straight. If comb
starts to bulge, use dental floss to disconnect and push comb back in place;
bees will reattach it. Always have 2 empty frames at end/back. Drone comb is
always at the outer edge of brood area; queen goes as far as first honey frame.
(LB note: I’ve heard she might cruise the whole hive occasionally.)
Consider adding a board midway in the frame for bees to use
as a ladder rather than having to climb the edges—this would be Langstroth frames
with no foundation.
One bee makes 1/12 teaspoon of honey during its lifetime!! I
felt much gratitude as I spread honey on my morning toast today.
Regarding feeding of whatever, sugar
heated above 180° is toxic to bees and to humans as well.
Entrances: Scientists research shows bees prefer 2.5
square inches for an entrance. Naomi has hers 3/8” high and about 4” wide, a
little less than the 2.5; however, it works and can easily be blocked during
yellow jacket season or robbing. No lightening (landing) board is needed; bees
land at 60° horizontal so if you have landing board, make it this angle.
3/8” width is ideal for bees for almost every spacing.
Less than 3/8” frames—more propolyzing; more than 3/8” more burr comb.
Line length of bars/frames exactly magnetic north and
south; bees prefer it. Also, place hives on earth grid lines; identify them by
dowsing. Several people spoke of this and shared interesting anecdotes: noisy
hive calmed when moved to grid line; swarming hive stayed put when moved. Bees
work at 250 hertz according to Richard. (and, an aside by another member—dogs point
nose north when defecating…something to notice…)
Place opening on south side perpendicular to N/S frame
placement.
Find magnetic grid through dowsing; welding rods 15” top,
12” sides; hold side without thumbs so no pressure and a little offset to allow
for crossing.
Strong magnetic lines between large trees; look around at
Junipers, see line of larger trees.
Richard XXX builds the Long Hive using exterior plywood,
metal covered roof, exterior grade screws, for $375 plus $1.20 for each frame. No
plans available and I’ll plan to purchase one to use and show Ken in
Independence, my hive builder!
